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One of the most popular questions we get is “What thread and needle go with *this* fabric?”
While there are certainly some preferences, this is not nearly the complex formula people make it out to be. Because of the frequency of the question, we will dive into what you need to know to get the most out of your projects and how to avoid thread and needle pitfalls.
Many makers fret over nesting, thread breakage, and even damage to your fabric. Although these are valid concerns, perils like this more often come from thread tension issues, old needles, or bobbin problems.
Learning your machine, its dials, and preferences will alleviate more thread and needle issues than any pairing guide that we can make.
With that being said, there is still some information that will help you make appropriate adjustments and we’ll go over that now. Even though it might not be as complex as you think, we want to make sure you’re confident enough to make the gear you want.
Test your stitching
As always, we recommend that you use some scrap material (similar or identical to the one you’re using in your project) before you start sewing. This is especially important when working with multiple layers of materials, slippery fabrics, or heavy fabrics. Each fabric can feel different when it’s going through the machine, dialing in the tension and getting a feel for the material before the stitches really matter is invaluable information to gather.
Use what you’ve got
Here’s a big secret. On our machine in the maker space at the RBTR headquarters, we use one needle and one type of thread for just about everything. On the Highlead industrial machine, we use 80/12 sharp needles and Perma Core T40 thread. On the home machines we use, we have those equipped with 80/12 sharp needles and MARA 70 thread.
Chances are, the thread and needle you have on your machine will do what you need on your project.
There are certain instances where a slight adjustment can suit you or your project more appropriately. Even still, tension adjustments are crucial and will be extremely important.
Below we have attached a graphic that will help you understand how slight adjustments in your application might change the thread and needle that you use.
There are many types of needles in the sewing world. The needles that we are highlighting below are only the types that we carry and that our materials use.
Universal
As the name suggests, these are commonly used needles. Great for nearly all applications. These will serve you well in a wide variety of projects. Great for medium and heavy weight laminates, coated fabrics, and other technical materials.
Sharp
These needles have a fine tip and a more narrow shaft that makes them great for precise sewing. A sharp needle head helps puncture the material with a smaller hole. Great for a large variety of projects. This is what we use on our machines in the maker space.
Ball Point/Jersey
Needle size
One of the only things you have to be aware of is that not all threads are compatible with all needles. The thickness of the needle dictates the eye of the needle. If the eye of the needle is too tight, it may not pass thread through as easily which can affect your tension.
Another thing to keep in mind is the size of the hole that the needle creates. A smaller needle will create a smaller hole. This is especially important for laminates and ultralight materials. For instance, Gutermann recommends a 90/14 needle with MARA 70; However, we choose to use a 80/12 needle instead because it sews well and reduces hole size.
Below we have created a graph that will help you understand the compatibility between needles and thread.
At the end of the day, you want clear and actionable information. So here’s our endorsement. For the great majority of makers, an 80/12 sharp needle set and MARA 70 (if you use a home machine) or Perma Core T40 , (if you use an industrial machine) will get you through almost every project you can think of.
As fellow makers we understand the trepidation that comes with a new project. We want to make sure that your project is successful and part of that is the confidence in your tools. These are our generalized recommendations for which needle and thread go best with certain materials.
Please note that these are just recommendations made without knowing individual context or details. Use your own discretion to select the best thread and needle for your project.
For ~90% of projects, the needle and thread you have will be just fine. As you continue your DIY journey you will come to learn more about your machine and the fabrics you’re working with. Until then, we believe in empowering you with the information that we’ve learned to simplify your maker journey.
Click on the image below to open the spreadsheet.
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